Welcome

Ironwood's Rozelle showroom

Wow, we are having a ball. We are selling floors, attracting a lot of interest from overseas and we are buying up old antique timbers to replenish our stocks.

Ironwood has recently secured its first large order from Japan, which has taken up a lot of our milling resources. We have had to scour the length and breadth of the country to find some of the timber sections they wanted, so we feel we have been able to achieve something that no one else was able to do.

That's precisely the message we want to publicise - At Ironwood, we go out of our way and turn over every stone in an attempt to meet our customers' expectations. Though it is expected, we know it is also appreciated because 90% of our business is from return customers and referrals.

Message for architects, designers and renovators

250mm red ironbark floors make a room look more spacious and are amazingly stylish.

We all know that architects expect to see timber flooring in rustic and traditional buildings. What is not well known or appreciated is that wideboard timber floors are increasingly being used as a prime feature in many luxury residences - because it is individualistic, natural, rich and is so full of personality. What's more, 200mm + wideboard floors are still relatively rare, so they make a statement.

Ironwood's latest penthouse ($10 million price tag - I kid you not!) is in The Rocks. It features our 250mm red ironbark floors throughout, which along with the red ironbark stairs, is undoubtedly the most striking and compelling feature in the penthouse. Upon first seeing the penthouse my thoughts were that the wideboard floors opened up ones senses, without presenting a busy coloured mosaic. They made the rooms look more spacious and they were amazingly stylish.

If you are not online, have a look at the photos in our showroom, online newsletter or website to see some of the magnificent images of our floors in a modern setting.

Keith Mackenzie
Managing Director

Winter special!

• Magnificent 'Tambo' Ash 200 x 22mm (T&G)
  $80.00 per s.m.

Feature story

Timber Finishes (part 1 - Flooring Finishes)

Timber floors are not only defined by colour and grain but also by the way the flooring is finished.

The overall appearance of a finished timber floor is defined not only by the colour and grain but also by the manner in which the flooring is finished. Coating choices are very distinctive so it is important to select the right system for a predetermined look and feel, always bearing in mind the maintenance requirements and wear and tear the timber will be subjected to.

Options include water-based polyurethanes, single pack and two-pack solvent based polyurethanes and oil modified or oil-based compounds, which are all appropriate in certain circumstances.

Other relevant considerations include the colour, shine/gloss level, the required surface look and feel, the timber itself, the required durability and abrasion resistance and ease of restoration. Most finishes consider maintenance and shine above timber friendliness. Years ago most finishes comprised oils and waxes to enhance appearance, they were easily restored, but were labour intensive to apply and maintain. The traditional methods now prove to be too cost and time prohibitive in our modern world.

Always test a surface before you apply the final finish, if a finish is rejected restart the process with an oil sealer.

In commercial buildings and public places, water-based polyurethanes, while expensive, are generally the most appropriate because they do not contain solvents. As it is not possible to isolate air-conditioning systems to a specific area, particularly when needing to apply subsequent coats and maintenance applications, solvent based coatings are generally considered to be unsuitable.

For commercial situations where such considerations are not an issue and rapidly achieved abrasion (scratch) resistance is preferred, a two-pack fast curing solvent-based polyurethane is then the only choice. We note, however, that moisture is usually not a relevant consideration on a well-cured concrete slab.

In domestic situations where abrasion resistance is not critical, an easy-to-use single pack solvent-based polyurethane provides an acceptable long-term abrasion resistant surface.

Where abrasion resistance is not particularly relevant, an oil-based or oil modified system is preferred as it sinks in a 1-2mm and allows the timber to breathe and move. This system can generally be maintained with a wax polish - which fills in scratches, thereby reducing the light refraction and thus restoring an even and consistent polished finish. The wax normally needs to be cleaned off and reapplied in domestic situations every 3 months.

The good oil

Always test a surface before you apply the final finish (oily woods - such as tallowwood and spotted gum which feel 'waxy', are notorious for rejecting certain preservative finishes). If a finish is rejected restart the process with an oil sealer.

Single pack polyurethane

Otherwise known as moisture cured polyurethane. Forms a hard-wearing surface and is non-porous. The drying time will vary based on atmospheric conditions and surface airflow. It is possible to apply 2 coats in a day in well-aired locations. Problems can occur where application takes place in very dry conditions. Usually 2 gloss coats and 1 satin or matt coat are applied. In terms of its chemical composition and its reaction with the elements, the professionals we work with tell us that this product is potentially hazardous. It apparently continues curing after it has dried and we are told is in fact banned in a few European countries. It seems that there is also some debate on the internet suggesting that single pack polyurethanes may also affect asthmatics.

Two-pack polyurethane

Excellent, harder wearing surface is non-porous. Drying assisted by chemical reaction. Usually dry to touch within 4 hours. In good drying conditions 2 coats can be applied in a day. Problems may occur with edge bonding* if flooring is not professionally laid. Latest products on the market have 'oil-based qualities', are very thin and penetrate the surface. It used to be that this product was only available in gloss but is now also available in a matt finish that "penetrates and builds" - see latest Scandinavian products. Usually 2 gloss coats and 1 satin or matt coat are applied. Very hard finishes are also available for benchtop and stairs finishes. Extra additive (catalised polyurethanes) are also available which dry in 20 minutes and allow 4 coats to be applied in 24 hours.

Water-based polyurethane

The coating cures by evaporation and reaction with the water embodied in the sealer. It forms a clear, hardwearing surface. Drying times are relatively short and in good conditions with surface airflow more than one coat can be applied in a day. It contains no solvents or formaldehyde and is often selected where there is concern over the effect of fumes. Gloss and satin finishes are available, however to achieve a high level of gloss it may require up to 4 or more coats. Considered to be environmentally friendly. However, they are very expensive (± $135 per litre). Technical experts say that these finishes raise the grain. I am told that the experts they prefer the two-pack polyurethane solution.

Oleoresinous oils / coating systems (clear varnishes)

They are generally made up using a mixture of a resin and oil (usually a tung oil). They are easy to apply, penetrate the timber surface and give a slightly softer look as compared with polyurethanes. Drying times directly relate to atmospheric conditions, though generally are slower than polyurethane. They are less hardwearing than polyurethane, though any scratches can be touched up with a surface polish, which is recommended to restore the finish and also cover over scratches. High gloss levels can be achieved using a polishing machine and regular maintenance. (Cost approx $60 per litre)

Tung oil

The traditional method of coating timber floors. Tung oil is however only a sealer. It is penetrative and less hard wearing than polyurethane. The coating is slow drying, requires 3 coats and usually a full day is required between coats, even in good drying conditions. Requires an acrylic (sacrificial) polish (such as Gemini) to be applied 3-4 days after the last coat to create a hard-wearing finish. Needs regular coatings of maintenance products such as water-based wax polishes. Gives a very soft and natural appearance.

Gloss levels

An important personal preference for the appearance of timber floors. Whereas high gloss may be a popular choice it is not suited to all colours or types of timbers - particularly those which naturally have a high oil content. Technically the technical issues can be solved by using different sealants. It is however a different story when it comes to the look and feel of the timber as timber finishes cannot be changed with just a single new coat.

Drying

After applying the final coat you should be aware that it takes at least a week before the final coat is dry enough to withstand normal wear and tear. Sure it may be touch dry within 24 hours - that is however only the surface curing. You should therefore try and avoid moving heavy furniture or walking on new floors with your shoes for at least a week after the final coat has been applied.

* Edge bonding only occurs when there is excessive movement (i.e. the "moisture gradient" is exceeded because floors have not been acclimatised properly before they have been laid or the floors were laid and acclimatised in weather extremes). Clumping arises when polyurethane coatings ooze into the tongue and groove joints between individual boards, effectively gluing boards together. When the boards shrink a single gap opens up between every 4-6 boards. Once this problem occurs it is permanent.

** Have a look on our website for floor maintenance tips and other technical advice.

CAUTION:

Do not stay in a house while floor sanding and coatings are applied. Stay away for at least 48 hours after drying.

Air newly coated rooms for at least 48 hours and open doors to let out the heavy molecules which sit at ground level (the worst fumes are knee down!).

In next months issue:

Exterior Timber Finish Considerations

Species	Colour	Hardness Rating	Durability Rating	Strength Group
Alpine Ash #	Light straw	5	4	SD4
Mountain Ash #	Light straw	4.9	4	SD3
Blackbutt	Pale yellowish brown	9.2	2	SD2
Box - Grey	Dark browns & reds	13.1	1	SD1
Brush Box	Pinkish grey / reds / browns	9.1	3	SD3
Ironbark - Grey	Dark browns & reds	16.3	1	SD1
Ironbark - Red	Dark reds	14.0	1	SD3
Kauri - N.Z.	Pale pink / reddish brown	3.3	4	SD8
Karri -W.A.	Pink / dark reddish brown	9.0	3	SD2
Mahogany - Red	Dark red	12.0	1	SD3
Messmate	Yellowish to greyish brown	7.1	3	SD3
Pines - Baltic	White / pale yellow	2.5	4	SD8
Pines - Cypress	Pale/dark yellow	6.6	4	SD6
Spotted Gum	Pale to dark browns	11.0	2	SD2
Sydney Blue Gum	Dark pink to red brown	9.0	3	SD3
Tallowwood	Yellowish brown / olive tinge	8.6	1	SD2
Turpentine	Dark pink to reddish brown	12.0	1	SD3
# These Ash varieties are collectively and commonly referred to as Victorian Ash. Tasmanian Oak is a combination of these and other distinctive ash varieties found in Tasmania. ## When it comes to structural beams and posts, strength, toughness, elasticity, shrinkage, weight, stability, lyctid borer susceptibility, edge splintering all need to be taken into account. Further details are available on the internet. ### Ironwood's feature beams and posts are old timbers that have usually been modified in their previous fitting. We therefore do not provide ratings on these timbers as they are sold purely for aesthetic purposes.

Our warehouse and display rooms are conveniently located in Rozelle (near the ANZAC Bridge). Come in and visit us, we are open Mon-Fri 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. and Saturday 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m