Welcome

Ironwood's Rozelle showroom

Our latest warehouse demolition has produced some fantastic timbers. It includes a large number of posts, floor joist timbers and also a range of flooring sizes runs from 80mm through to 255mm in a variety of creams and reds. The floorboards are stunning - even better than the Dubbo Woolstore, so we are really chuffed with ourselves.

You need to come in and see these little beauties for yourself!

On a separate matter, if you have rung the office recently you will have noticed a few new voices on the other end of the phone. Our latest addition is a Kiwi import, so for goodness sake don't mention the word RUGBY during the world cup - he will probably be full of it.

Message for architects, designers and renovators

Many colours and features are only available in really old timbers.

Overseas in the rest of the developed world people are starting to consciously consider the impact of their actions on the world's natural resources. Recycled timber is becoming a big thing in countries such as Japan and also in certain European countries.

What I find strange about this latest trend is that old timbers can be found in shapes and sizes that are not generally available in new timber. The old antique timbers also show-off incredible colours and features, because they came from trees that were hundreds of years old. These old trees age like old men who have grow up in the outback. They show off their age, character and the hardships they have endured by producing colour variations, grains, swirls and fickleback which are only evident in really old timbers.

How green are you going now?

Keith Mackenzie
Managing Director

October specials!

• 200mm x 22mm PE Tambo Ash
  $80 per sqr metre (including tax)
  - you will not find a 200mm wideboard at this price anywhere.
• 130mm x 19mm EM Blackbutt
  $65 per sqr metre (including tax)
  - GREAT BUYING, high quality standard grade boards
• 80mm x 19mm PE Recycled Blackbutt
  $65 per sqr metre (including tax)
  - surface checking, secret nail profile, from our own mill. FANTASTIC

Feature story

Timber Finishes (part 2 - Outdoor Finishes)

Outdoors, timber needs to be protected from UV and water.

Timber is one of the most inherently beautiful building materials known to us. It is only natural that people want a coating for timber that preserves and shows off the infinite variety of grains and colour. These needs are met perfectly for timber in interior environments; the problems arise when timber is on the exterior. In order to understand the reasons for this, one must first consider the surface chemistry of timber. Put simply, timber changes with age. It reacts to the elements and weathers over time. Timber finishes can only slow down the effects of ultra violet light, direct sunlight, temperature extremes and rain. Some timber finishes do it better than others.

All untreated timbers fade over time to a silver/grey. In the process its surfaces become rough and splits and cracks develop as the timber dries out. The way timber handles changes in the moisture content is best illustrated in a wharf pylon. When they are replaced you find that the timber permanently in the water is often fine, the timber permanently above the water line is often fine, but the timber subject to tidal variations is usually rotten to its core.

Some timbers, such as spotted gum and tallowood, are better at handling water than others because of their natural oily properties. They are however harder to seal because of their natural oil content and usually require more than one coat of primer.

Weather Protection

The most common reason why outdoor finishes age is because timbers have not been effectively sealed. Sealing the end grain is the biggest failing. If you are going to seal a timber make sure you treat all exposed and unexposed surfaces. Try and avoid using timbers outside which have a gum vein or knots. Any area where water can collect is going to accelerate the aging process - so be very mindful to eliminate any areas where water or moisture can collect. The experts will however tell you their preference is not to seal outdoor timbers as it is preferable to let timbers breathe.

Types

Finishes range from clear water repelant resins, finishing oils to full paint systems. Each of these applications are different in terms of their appearance, cost, method of application, maintenance, durability, life and degree of protection. The choice of application depends on the look, degree of protection, durability of the finish, ease and frequency of applying new coats.

Film finishes are more resistant to wear. Penetrating finishes however move with the timber as it reacts to changes in moisture, are therefore advantageous as they look more natural, can be applied to rough surfaces, do not peel or blister and do not trap moisture within the timber. Water-based and acrylic paints are preferred in outdoor situations as they move with the timber and are porous.

Paints

These normally provide the best protection as they totally cover the surface and almost totally prevent light and moisture from reaching the timber. The problem is that paints do not show off the timber. If you are going to use paints, remember that dark colours deteriorate faster outside, while white pigments reflect the ultra violet light, which ages both timber and paints. Dark colours absorb heat thereby raising the temperature within timber causing it to sweat and dry out.

Oil-based primer coats are best as they penetrate the surface and allow the timber to breathe. If you need a hard-wearing surface use oil and solvent based paints. Water-based and acrylic alternatives on the other hand are more durable, do not blister or hold water and also do not crack when subjected to prolonged direct sunlight. With certain brands oil-based primers can be used in conjunction with an acrylic finish - which is our preference when applying a paint finish.

We do not recommend the use of a polyurethane finish outside because when it breaks-down it takes a lot of work to clean back and reapply new primers and coatings.

Clear finishes (varnishes and polyurethanes)

Clear coatings do not easily match the requirements of a coating for timber because:

1. They cannot reflect heat, as any heat reflecting pigments will reduce or eliminate the clarity of the coating.
2. The path through the film for moisture is very short and unimpeded due to the absence of pigments.
3. A clear coating designed to allow the unrestricted passage of visible light cannot entirely stop the passage of closely related (and damaging) U.V. light.
4. The clear coating itself yellows with age due to oxidisation.

U.V. resistant films usually fail because:

1. Cracks develop in the coating/timber system due to moisture penetration and the timber swelling.
2. Rapid attack by U.V. and moisture at the site of the crack.
3. Colonisation by mould.
4. Loss of adhesion around cracks resulting in "peel-back" and discolouration due to the film oxidising.

Simple clear oil treatments are not subject to this "peel-back" problem - they however wash-off over time. The route to achieving a satisfactory clear finish for timber is therefore to protect the timber from the principal enemies - water and U.V. light. Experience shows that this can only be successfully achieved by applying regular re-coats. If water gets in, timber will move. The aim is therefore to apply and maintain a water repellant preservatives which are U.V enhanced, penetrate the timber surface, are flexible and move with the timber - thus reducing surface cracks. Certain products are available which also include fungicides, insecticides and resist mould. Latest technological advances now also include resin based products that are microporous, effectively allowing the timber to breathe.

Clear finishes are generally not as effective as paint and need to be reapplied more regularly - usually 12-24 months. They require extensive surface preparation before being applied, however if the surface is still clean and even, re-coats can be reapplied with minimal preparation.

Application of finishes

Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations with respect to surface preparation, sealing, priming, number of coats, atmospheric conditions and time between coats. Primers provide the base for the adhesion of subsequent coats. As mentioned above it is preferable to use oil-based products. It's also preferable to apply them with a brush and work them into the grain with successive strokes, applying the primer to all surfaces. Undercoats are applied to bridge gaps and ensure the easy and smooth application of the finishing coat.

Timber must be reasonably dry before painting because blistering will occur if excess moisture is trapped behind a cured paint film. NB: Most waxes are not suited outdoors as they do not handle direct sunlight and "wet-cleaning" (though we are aware of the imminent release of a new wax product which has been tested outdoors for 7 years).

Decking

Due to the harsh wear and tear requirements and excessive leaching effect of rain on horizontal surfaces only use a finish which is specifically recommended for timber decks. Gum vein and knots should be covered and sealed wherever possible with a non-porous resin. Sharp edges should be rounded off before painting as paints and clear finishes tend to pull back from sharp edges leaving a thin film which will age prematurely. The decking surface should be sanded as this will improve the surface for bonding. Hardwoods are less inclined to accept oil-based finishes because of the timber density - sometimes 2 primer coats are therefore required. Always ask your supplier to confirm that the primer you choose is suitable for hardwood applications.

Suggest that you double the recommended drying time when working with close-grained hardwoods. Also, try not to walk on the surface for a week after applying the final coat as finishes need time to harden.

We sell Clearwood Preservative Water Repellant made by Timber Solutions. It also protects from fungal and termite attack if reapplied every 12 months. It is a very effective timber treatment which is easily reapplied.

It protects timber from end-splitting, warping and surface checking but will not stop timber from turning silver/grey. It can be applied directly over the manufacturers deep penetrating timber stain which is used to preserve the timber colour if you want your deck to retain its original colour.

Ironwood Tip of the Month

For cleaning up timber leaching stains - Oxalic Acid - a poisonous, colourless crystalline organic acid, found in many plants, such as spinach. It's also used as a bleach and rust remover and is available at most hardware stores.

Species	Colour	Hardness Rating	Durability Rating	Strength Group
Alpine Ash #	Light straw	5	4	SD4
Mountain Ash #	Light straw	4.9	4	SD3
Blackbutt	Pale yellowish brown	9.2	2	SD2
Box - Grey	Dark browns & reds	13.1	1	SD1
Brush Box	Pinkish grey / reds / browns	9.1	3	SD3
Ironbark - Grey	Dark browns & reds	16.3	1	SD1
Ironbark - Red	Dark reds	14.0	1	SD3
Kauri - N.Z.	Pale pink / reddish brown	3.3	4	SD8
Karri -W.A.	Pink / dark reddish brown	9.0	3	SD2
Mahogany - Red	Dark red	12.0	1	SD3
Messmate	Yellowish to greyish brown	7.1	3	SD3
Pines - Baltic	White / pale yellow	2.5	4	SD8
Pines - Cypress	Pale/dark yellow	6.6	4	SD6
Spotted Gum	Pale to dark browns	11.0	2	SD2
Sydney Blue Gum	Dark pink to red brown	9.0	3	SD3
Tallowwood	Yellowish brown / olive tinge	8.6	1	SD2
Turpentine	Dark pink to reddish brown	12.0	1	SD3
# These Ash varieties are collectively and commonly referred to as Victorian Ash. Tasmanian Oak is a combination of these and other distinctive ash varieties found in Tasmania. ## When it comes to structural beams and posts, strength, toughness, elasticity, shrinkage, weight, stability, lyctid borer susceptibility, edge splintering all need to be taken into account. Further details are available on the internet. ### Ironwood's feature beams and posts are old timbers that have usually been modified in their previous fitting. We therefore do not provide ratings on these timbers as they are sold purely for aesthetic purposes.

Our warehouse and display rooms are conveniently located in Rozelle (near the ANZAC Bridge). Come in and visit us, we are open Mon-Fri 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. and Saturday 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m